Pond Bacteria – What it is and why you need it in your pond?

Pond Eco-system

Bacteria are microscopic unicellular organisms, typically spherical, rod-like, or spiral and threadlike in shape, often clumped into colonies. Some bacteria cause disease, while others perform an essential role in nature in recycling of materials.

For example, bacteria aids in the recycling of decomposed organic matter into a form available for reuse by plants. Some forms of bacteria are used to stabilize organic wastes in wastewater treatment plants, oil spills, or other pollutants.

Bacteria is very important in the function of your pond ecosystem. There are countless types of bacteria, something for every function. Bacteria work together to form a giant recycling plant by taking waste and dead material and converting it back into usable nutrients in the food chain.

 

Natural Pond Eco-system

Bacteria prefer to be anchored to a substance like rocks or gravel, and are found in largest quantities in the mist of decomposing leaves. Putting rocks and gravel in a pond significantly reduces the amount of muck buildup in the bottom of the pond. This is because rocks and gravel provide many places for bacteria to call “home”, much more than a bare liner. More bacteria means more capacity to break down fish waste and plant debris, which leads to better water quality.

The type of bacteria we recommend using in our pond systems is a safe, non-toxic combination of specially blended bacteria and enzymes. It is designed to assist in controlling water quality and is similar to the bacteria naturally present in oceans, rivers, streams, and lakes in that it assists in completely breaking down dead organic matter thereby minimizing the release of nutrients and toxins into the water. It is recommended that this special mix of bacteria be introduced into a newly established water garden and continued thereafter in two to three week intervals.

What is a Formal Pond?

For thousands of years, creative architects have employed formal ponds to provide focus, noise abatement, and evaporative cooling in both public and private gardens.

Although formal ponds were traditionally built of stone, today they can also be built with brick, concrete, or pressure treated wood.  A raised perimeter wall can highlight the attractive structural materials and offer visitors a place to sit by the water; a flush edge is easier to build and will make the garden feel more spacious. Simple rectangular shapes with vertical side walls are recommended for ease of waterproofing, but other shapes are possible.

Fish and plants are optional, but a fountain is a virtual necessity.  A depth of 10″ to 24″ is sufficient.

Formal ponds can match a more formal architectural design but can be difficult to maintain and expensive to build.  Their pumps can clog easily and there is no biological or mechanical filtration.  Also, if built from concrete, it can crack.

Concrete Pond

Pond Algae – Why You Want it and How to Control it?

Aquatic algae, (thought of by many as pond scum) are microscopic plants that grow in sunlit water that contains phosphates, nitrates, and other nutrients.  Algae, like all aquatic plants, add oxygen to the water and are important in the fish food chain. They share many characteristics with plants, although they lack true stems, roots, and do not flower.  Common algae that forms in ponds include planktonic algae (green water algae) and filamentous algae (string algae).

Algae is actually important and beneficial to a pond or water garden.  It is part of the eco-system we want to establish in the ponds because it helps in maintaining good water quality.  If the pond filtration and circulation system are properly designed, the nutrients and toxins can be controlled, there by controlling algae growth.  The perceived algae problem begins when algae grow in abundance, but this condition is really a symptom or an indicator of excessive nutrients and or toxins in the pond water.

Excess nutrients are typically caused from feeding the fish too much, too often, or both. In addition, leaves, grass, or other organic material find their way into the pond, settle to the bottom and begin decaying and releasing nutrients into the water.

Excess toxins are typically generated directly from fish and decomposing matter. When fish breath they release ammonia into the water form their gills.  If the pond is overstocked, either by too many fish or too large of fish, you may find the water looks like pea soup. In addition, decomposing organic material such as fish waste, leaves, sticks, grass, etc., can generate toxins.

As a general rule, if you are experiencing an algae problem, adding more of the ‘right kind’ of filtration will help you reduce and manage the amount of algae in your pond.

This includes:

  1. Plants, such as lilies, shade the pond and reduce the amount of sunlight available for algae growth.
  2. Fish, especially koi, will eat a tremendous amount of algae.
  3. Rocks and gravel provide surface areas for bacteria to colonize in and between the rocks, which is like having an additional biological filter in the pond.
  4. Skimmers act as a mechanical filter by removing leaves and other debris from the surface of the pond before they can sink to the bottom and decompose and then turn into either nutrients or toxins.
  5. Biological Filters provide an area for bacteria and enzymes to colonize which consume nutrients and help break down organic debris and fish waste that would otherwise contribute to water quality problems.

Algae is a part of nature just like the other parts of the eco-system.  The main goal in keeping clean water is not to attempt to completely rid your pond of algae, but to keep it in balance with nature.

Natural Waterfall and Pond

How Much Sunlight Does a Pond Need?

This is one of the biggest myths surrounding water gardening today. Most books say a pond needs a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight a day for aquatic plants to live. They discourage building a pond in a shady area.

The truth is that aquatic plants do bloom more and flourish better in high sunlight conditions. This is not debatable. What is debatable is how well aquatic plants can do in low light conditions.

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Determining my Waterfall Pool Size

If the water is going into a pond, the size of the pond in square feet of surface area needs to be 1 1/2 times the square footage of your waterfall and stream. For example, if your waterfall and stream is 20 feet long and 3 feet wide, then the pond should be 90 sq. feet.

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Choosing The Best Pond Location

Natural Backyard Pond

Pond location and pond size are the two most important and, unfortunately, misunderstood aspects of pond design. So many people think the far corner of their property is the best location. People also believe low points in their yard that gather run-off when it rains are naturally suited to building a pond.

These are two of the worst locations to build a pond, yet people automatically assume they are the best.

 

 

 

The water feature needs to be brought up close and personal to the home. Low spots should be avoided because run-off water can pollute a pond and construction is often complicated because wet muddy soil is hard to work in. Excessive ground water levels can shift stone and cause bubbles in the liner.

Positioning a pond.

Place your water feature where people can enjoy it. Even outdoor-loving people spend 90% of their time inside the house. You should try to face the waterfalls toward the house. That way the waterfall is not only visible from the living area, but the sound it creates will echo through the home. When a pond can be seen and heard from the home, its enjoyment is increased dramatically.

Another location you might not have considered is a front yard water feature. Adding a water feature to your front yard adds true curb appeal.

One of our expert design consultants will help you find the perfect location for your pond. Contact us today for your Design Consultation.